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| techtalk:ref:wheels06a [2019/06/29 23:02] – [Clean All Old Brake Fluid Out of the M/C] hippysmack | techtalk:ref:wheels06a [2020/07/17 04:26] (current) – [Test the M/C] hippysmack | ||
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| ====== An Exercise in Bleeding the Brake System ====== | ====== An Exercise in Bleeding the Brake System ====== | ||
| - | Link to this page: \\ | ||
| - | See also [[techtalk: | ||
| The test subject is a brake lever and master cylinder from a 95 Kawasaki but the process is the same for a Sportster. \\ | The test subject is a brake lever and master cylinder from a 95 Kawasaki but the process is the same for a Sportster. \\ | ||
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| You don't want to send more old brake fluid in the system while you are working. \\ | You don't want to send more old brake fluid in the system while you are working. \\ | ||
| - | |{{: | + | {{: |
| + | ====== Test the M/C ====== | ||
| + | **For a pressure squirt**: \\ | ||
| + | With new fluid in the M/C, before attempting to move fluid or bleed the air, lightly squeeze the lever or pedal. \\ | ||
| + | Watch for a spurt of fluid from the hole in the bottom. \\ | ||
| + | This shows the seals are operating properly. \\ | ||
| + | If you squeeze / push too hard with the cap off, the spurt will be higher and may come out of the M/C onto the bike parts. \\ | ||
| + | If using DOT 5 fluid, this is a simple matter of cleanup with a rag. \\ | ||
| + | If using DOT3,4 or 5.1 then it needs to be hosed off with water immediately as these type fluids will eat your paint. \\ | ||
| + | {{: | ||
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| + | **For air bubbles**: \\ | ||
| + | With the cap off, tickle the lever / pedal and check for air bubbles to come up inside the M/C. \\ | ||
| + | If you see any bubbles, before sending these down the brake line, continue to tickle until they are no longer created. \\ | ||
| + | {{: | ||
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| + | ====== How Air Bubbles Move ====== | ||
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| + | Here's a short video on how the air moves as the lever is tickled. \\ | ||
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