Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- techtalk:ih:oil03g [2024/09/01 18:26] – [Pump Body Damage] hippysmack
+++ techtalk:ih:oil03g [2024/09/26 20:39] (current) – [Idler Shaft Removal] hippysmack
@@ Line 297: / Line 297: @@
 This makes questionable imperfections more to a higher degree of scrutiny than 77-up gerotor pumps that don't require engine uprooting. \\
-Scratches in and around the gear pockets are not neccessarily a huge problem unless they are too frequent or too deep. \\
-How frequent or how deep are the real questions. Answers may generally be vague or not detailed enough. \\
-But the only answer that counts is the one YOU make as to whether to repair, replace or just keep using the old body. \\
-What causes the scratches? \\
-Oil is not just oil over the course of time. \\
-It normally picks up gas from the top end falling into the bottom end, tiny metal debris from the moving parts in the motor and condensation. \\
-These may produce light striations or scratches between the gear teeth and their corresponding pump walls in a circular motion. \\
-It picks up bigger debris/bits when damage is or was happening inside the motor from the moving parts. These make bigger scratches. \\
-Pics of oil pump bodies can be deceiving as really good cameras will make colorations/striations look deeper than they actually are. \\
+Below is a compilation of just a few oil pumps with various gear well damage. \\
-The only sure way at times is by cleaning the body with brake cleaner etc and eyeballing the areas in question. \\
-It's difficult to get any measuring equpiment in there. You could press some clay into the gear bore and remove it to measure scratch depth with a caliper. \\
-Machining marks are not a problem at all. Light scoring isn't really a problem either. \\
-It takes deeper scratches on the bore walls to harshly impact the flow. \\
-Multiple deeper scratching will only increase the amount of oil that will recirculate from the pressure side to the suction side.
-This is the condition in question, recirculating oil in the pump dimenishes the amount of oil pumped to the motor. \\
+{{:techtalk:ih:oil:1952-1976_sportster_oil_pump_gear_wall_damage_compilation_by_hippysmack.jpg?direct&400|}}
-But that has to a lot of recirculating oil in order for the pump to not pump oil. \\
-Example, there was a pump that was put back together with mis-matched return gears (height difference app .070"). \\
-The pump was not pumping enough oil out of the motor. \\
-It still delivered oil to the tank but with a weak stream and oil was backing up in the cam chest. \\
-So just because there was oil coming into the tank didn't mean it was pumping enough oil. \\
-Deep multiple circular scratches in the body gear bore will under perform oil flow in the same way. \\
+====== Roll Pin Damage/Removal ======
-====== Roll Pin Removal ======
 Generally you have 3 lines of action depending on what you're up against. ((Dr Dick of the XLFORUM https://www.xlforum.net/forum/sportster-motorcycle-forum/sportster-motorcycle-era-specific-and-model-specific/ironhead-sportster-motorcycle-talk-1957-1985/127032-getting-this-78-back-to-the-way-it-should-be/page30#post2932584)) \\
   - Squeeze exposed od of pin so it gets smaller and releases the press fit in the hole.
@@ Line 331: / Line 310: @@
 ====== Idler Shaft Removal ======
-If the idler shaft is damaged, you can remove it by applying heat to the pump body and the shaft should fall out. \\
+If the idler shaft is damaged, you can remove it by applying heat (150°F) to the pump body and the shaft should fall out. \\
-Then press in a new shaft making sure it is set even on both sides of the pump.
+Heat the pump body to (150°F) to install idler gear shaft. Shaft may not protrude above either oil pump body face. ((1972-2003 XR-750 Service Manual)) \\
 \\